Rabbit care sheet
I remember when I bought my first rabbit. She was a broken tort Holland Lop. I got her from the KY State Fair. The breeder really did not give much in the way of care instructions. I remember frantically calling the 24-hour vet to find out what we should get for her. We had to go to Walmart to get everything for her because she was certainly an impulse buy and we had NOTHING for a rabbit. We kept her in our dog’s crate for the first week while we shopped around for cages. I am hoping if you are reading this care sheet that you do not already have your rabbit. I hope you are wiser than I was and are doing your research before you buy a rabbit. Please realize this care sheet is what I recommend based on my time having rabbits; however, it is your call and your responsibility to provide what you feel is the best care for your rabbit.
Pellets: I feed Oxbow pellets. I like that Oxbow is readily available at just about any pet store and can be ordered in larger amounts online. This prevents me from having to constantly change feed. Avoid food coloring as it can cause liver damage over time. Avoid seeds and nuts as they are choking hazards. Ethoxyquin, BHA, and BHT are all preservatives you may find in rabbit food that is known to cause cancer. I ADD OATS TO MY PELLETS. This helps sooth upset stomachs that may occur. It is also good for their coat. The plain Quaker oats that come in the canister are good. Just only feed a pinch as they can cause obesity.
BE SURE TO GRADUALLY TRANSITION YOUR RABBIT ANY TIME YOU CHANGE THEIR FOOD.
Hay: Hay is one of the most important parts of your rabbit’s diet. Long strand fiber (hay) is responsible for acting like pipe-cleaners in your rabbit’s intestines. It gently scrapes the inside of the intestine, preventing intestinal blockage and keeping things working as they should. Timothy Hay is the best type of hay to feed to most rabbits. I recommend Alfalfa for pregnant or nursing rabbits or rabbits that are ill and need the extra calcium and protein for energy and to keep on weight (if they have energy, they'll eat, thus keeping on weight).
Supplements: If you feed a good quality pellet and hay, there’s not much you need to do in terms of supplements. I give rabbits that are molting or are a wool breed papaya tablets to prevent wool block, but that is about it.
Fruits/Veggies: There is a new school of thought that rabbits should not be fed pellets at all and should be fed fruits/veggies and hay only. In my opinion, this is a HORRIBLE idea. Pellets are designed to be nutritionally complete. It would be very difficult to consistently provide a nutritionally complete diet feeding veggies in lieu of pellets. This does not mean that fruits/veggies do not have a place in a rabbit’s diet at all. I give them as treats or if a rabbit has an upset tummy. Apples are very good in small amounts because the pectin that is in them helps with the gut mobility. My rabbits also like Cilantro and Bananas. I once had a rabbit that would have died if it were not for Cilantro and Bananas. She got gastric stasis and that is all she would eat. Avoid Iceberg Lettuce. It has an extremely high water content and very little nutritional value. It is a good way to give your bunny diarrhea. Instead, try Green Leaf or Romaine lettuce. My bunnies also like SMALL pieces of red or green pepper. As I said though, I give them fruits/veggies as treats a couple times a week. They make up only a small amount of their diet.
Treats: Don’t. Just don’t. They are junk food and a good way to make your rabbit obese. If you must give them a treat, refer back to the fruits/veggies section.
A Word About Gastric Stasis:
It. Can. Kill. Gastric stasis is when the gut mobility either slows down or stops completely. It can be caused by fur block, lack of proper fiber in the diet (read the Hay section), or if an ill rabbit stops eating. Other things I am sure can cause it, but these are the most common and the only ones I can think of at the moment. If your rabbit is suffering from gastric stasis, you MAY notice that it is hunched over, eyes partially closed, and breathing heavily. You will notice that the belly feels distended (tight, bloated) and that the production of fecal pellets has either slowed down or stopped completely. It is certainly more serious if the fecal pellets have stopped coming completely. This is what I do, and it is up to you if you want to do the same… I give infant gas drops for the bloat (a whole stopper full) and infant ibuprofen for the pain (usually 1/2 cc for a mid-sized, full grown rabbit). A rabbit that is in pain will likely not eat. THEY NEED TO EAT. If nothing goes in, nothing is going to push things along, and nothing will come out. The longer things sit still in there, the more it is turning to sludge and the less likely it will begin to move again. So find something that your rabbit will eat. In my experience, this is usually apple, banana, and/or cilantro. My friend also makes these cookies that you can buy at vlrca.com that I have never had a rabbit turn down. If you cannot get your rabbit to eat, it is not producing fecal pellets, and is showing no improvement with the above treatment, TAKE IT TO THE VET. I promise you, gastric stasis can kill a rabbit and it is very painful.
Housing: I'm actually updating this as my needs and lifestyle have evolved. I now use puppy playpens (aka exercise pens) for my rabbits. They are usually 4'x4' and can house two mid-sized rabbits who are spayed/neutered and bonded well. Spayed/neutered rabbits typically live longer because they are no longer at risk of getting certain types of common cancers. They also make better pets in my opinion because their instincts are toned down and they are usually 95% of the way litter box trained afterwards. I use vinyl flooring underneath of the playpen to protect my flooring.
NOTE: If you decide to use a wire-floor cage, be sure to give a resting mat so the rabbit can get off of the wire. It's hard on their hocks to live solely on wire.
Bedding: Remember that if your rabbit is going to have access to the bedding (basically if it's not a wire floored cage), there is a possibility that they may eat the bedding. Kay-kob bedding is extremely dangerous. It's made from corn cob and they love it, but it's really dangerous for them to eat. Also, any bedding that is extremely dusty can be hard on their respiratory systems. Cedar is a big no-no because the oils in it that give it that nice smell are toxic to them to breathe. Many say Pine is also dangerous. I have used it, but I prefer not to.
Some people use fleece in their rabbit's cage. I have, but I had a rabbit who got it wrapped around his leg after he chewed holes in it. He's still recovering, and I don't know if his foot can be saved or not :(
Grooming: Giving a rabbit a full bath is usually a very bad idea as it can cause them to get sick or even make them stress out so badly they die or break bones. Only do this as a last resort if your rabbit got into something toxic and it’s the only way you can get it clean. I had a rabbit that got diarrhea and I had to bathe her back-end to get the stool off. Had I not done that, it likely would have caused skin break down and sores. Use discretion and only do it if you absolutely must. Make sure the nails are trimmed monthly, especially if you have a droopy eared breed like the English Lop. Sharp nails can rip the ears and ripped ears bleed A LOT. Also, on droopy eared breeds, I clean out the ears monthly to prevent infection.
Toys: My rabbits LOVE toys. I use baby keys, toilet paper rolls stuffed with their favorite hay, willow rings and balls, wiffle balls, cardboard tubes that are big enough for them to run through (and safe to chew on)... The possibilities are virtually endless and limited only by your imagination and your rabbit's safety.
There are many other facets to rabbit care. This is just, in my opinion, a few of the most important topics. And again, this is based on my opinion. Everyone has their own way of doing things. It is up to you to find out what works for you.
Pellets: I feed Oxbow pellets. I like that Oxbow is readily available at just about any pet store and can be ordered in larger amounts online. This prevents me from having to constantly change feed. Avoid food coloring as it can cause liver damage over time. Avoid seeds and nuts as they are choking hazards. Ethoxyquin, BHA, and BHT are all preservatives you may find in rabbit food that is known to cause cancer. I ADD OATS TO MY PELLETS. This helps sooth upset stomachs that may occur. It is also good for their coat. The plain Quaker oats that come in the canister are good. Just only feed a pinch as they can cause obesity.
BE SURE TO GRADUALLY TRANSITION YOUR RABBIT ANY TIME YOU CHANGE THEIR FOOD.
Hay: Hay is one of the most important parts of your rabbit’s diet. Long strand fiber (hay) is responsible for acting like pipe-cleaners in your rabbit’s intestines. It gently scrapes the inside of the intestine, preventing intestinal blockage and keeping things working as they should. Timothy Hay is the best type of hay to feed to most rabbits. I recommend Alfalfa for pregnant or nursing rabbits or rabbits that are ill and need the extra calcium and protein for energy and to keep on weight (if they have energy, they'll eat, thus keeping on weight).
Supplements: If you feed a good quality pellet and hay, there’s not much you need to do in terms of supplements. I give rabbits that are molting or are a wool breed papaya tablets to prevent wool block, but that is about it.
Fruits/Veggies: There is a new school of thought that rabbits should not be fed pellets at all and should be fed fruits/veggies and hay only. In my opinion, this is a HORRIBLE idea. Pellets are designed to be nutritionally complete. It would be very difficult to consistently provide a nutritionally complete diet feeding veggies in lieu of pellets. This does not mean that fruits/veggies do not have a place in a rabbit’s diet at all. I give them as treats or if a rabbit has an upset tummy. Apples are very good in small amounts because the pectin that is in them helps with the gut mobility. My rabbits also like Cilantro and Bananas. I once had a rabbit that would have died if it were not for Cilantro and Bananas. She got gastric stasis and that is all she would eat. Avoid Iceberg Lettuce. It has an extremely high water content and very little nutritional value. It is a good way to give your bunny diarrhea. Instead, try Green Leaf or Romaine lettuce. My bunnies also like SMALL pieces of red or green pepper. As I said though, I give them fruits/veggies as treats a couple times a week. They make up only a small amount of their diet.
Treats: Don’t. Just don’t. They are junk food and a good way to make your rabbit obese. If you must give them a treat, refer back to the fruits/veggies section.
A Word About Gastric Stasis:
It. Can. Kill. Gastric stasis is when the gut mobility either slows down or stops completely. It can be caused by fur block, lack of proper fiber in the diet (read the Hay section), or if an ill rabbit stops eating. Other things I am sure can cause it, but these are the most common and the only ones I can think of at the moment. If your rabbit is suffering from gastric stasis, you MAY notice that it is hunched over, eyes partially closed, and breathing heavily. You will notice that the belly feels distended (tight, bloated) and that the production of fecal pellets has either slowed down or stopped completely. It is certainly more serious if the fecal pellets have stopped coming completely. This is what I do, and it is up to you if you want to do the same… I give infant gas drops for the bloat (a whole stopper full) and infant ibuprofen for the pain (usually 1/2 cc for a mid-sized, full grown rabbit). A rabbit that is in pain will likely not eat. THEY NEED TO EAT. If nothing goes in, nothing is going to push things along, and nothing will come out. The longer things sit still in there, the more it is turning to sludge and the less likely it will begin to move again. So find something that your rabbit will eat. In my experience, this is usually apple, banana, and/or cilantro. My friend also makes these cookies that you can buy at vlrca.com that I have never had a rabbit turn down. If you cannot get your rabbit to eat, it is not producing fecal pellets, and is showing no improvement with the above treatment, TAKE IT TO THE VET. I promise you, gastric stasis can kill a rabbit and it is very painful.
Housing: I'm actually updating this as my needs and lifestyle have evolved. I now use puppy playpens (aka exercise pens) for my rabbits. They are usually 4'x4' and can house two mid-sized rabbits who are spayed/neutered and bonded well. Spayed/neutered rabbits typically live longer because they are no longer at risk of getting certain types of common cancers. They also make better pets in my opinion because their instincts are toned down and they are usually 95% of the way litter box trained afterwards. I use vinyl flooring underneath of the playpen to protect my flooring.
NOTE: If you decide to use a wire-floor cage, be sure to give a resting mat so the rabbit can get off of the wire. It's hard on their hocks to live solely on wire.
Bedding: Remember that if your rabbit is going to have access to the bedding (basically if it's not a wire floored cage), there is a possibility that they may eat the bedding. Kay-kob bedding is extremely dangerous. It's made from corn cob and they love it, but it's really dangerous for them to eat. Also, any bedding that is extremely dusty can be hard on their respiratory systems. Cedar is a big no-no because the oils in it that give it that nice smell are toxic to them to breathe. Many say Pine is also dangerous. I have used it, but I prefer not to.
Some people use fleece in their rabbit's cage. I have, but I had a rabbit who got it wrapped around his leg after he chewed holes in it. He's still recovering, and I don't know if his foot can be saved or not :(
Grooming: Giving a rabbit a full bath is usually a very bad idea as it can cause them to get sick or even make them stress out so badly they die or break bones. Only do this as a last resort if your rabbit got into something toxic and it’s the only way you can get it clean. I had a rabbit that got diarrhea and I had to bathe her back-end to get the stool off. Had I not done that, it likely would have caused skin break down and sores. Use discretion and only do it if you absolutely must. Make sure the nails are trimmed monthly, especially if you have a droopy eared breed like the English Lop. Sharp nails can rip the ears and ripped ears bleed A LOT. Also, on droopy eared breeds, I clean out the ears monthly to prevent infection.
Toys: My rabbits LOVE toys. I use baby keys, toilet paper rolls stuffed with their favorite hay, willow rings and balls, wiffle balls, cardboard tubes that are big enough for them to run through (and safe to chew on)... The possibilities are virtually endless and limited only by your imagination and your rabbit's safety.
There are many other facets to rabbit care. This is just, in my opinion, a few of the most important topics. And again, this is based on my opinion. Everyone has their own way of doing things. It is up to you to find out what works for you.